May Day

 

May 2025

Pickaway to Garden

May Day

By Paul Hang

 

Mayday is a distress signal. May Day is a celebration. People cavort around the May Pole. May Day is May first. Another name for that day is Beltane. It is the halfway point between the spring equinox and the summer solstice. The month gets its name from Maia which is the name of the Greek goddess of the hunt and the Roman goddess of fertility. May marks the complete awakening of nature. May brings greenery, leaves, buds, flowers. The month symbolizes rebirth, renewal, fertility, hope. It seems every poet must write a verse about May. Samuel Scoville wrote “…honey-sweet May, when the birds come back, and the flowers come out, and the air is full of the sunshine scents and songs of the dawning year.”

 

There are many celebrations in the month across different cultures. Some of ours are: Cinco de Mayo; Mother’s Day; Memorial Day; Churches may celebrate Mother Mary, Catholics have their May processions. The first full moon in May, Vesak, is celebrated as the birth of Buddha. Observing the awakening of nature may inspire us to embrace our own inner renewal and personal growth.

 

Then, of course, there is the celebration that I have long advocated for, Ground Hug Day. We could have parades. Farmers would drive their tractors. Guys on their zero-turn mowers could zip around like Shriners on their little motorcycles, groups of mowers all in neat rows, ranks of rototillers; all could be decorated with crepe paper and ribbons. Little boys would not have to bathe on that day. Ranks of gardeners carrying various gardening tools, spades, loppers, rakes, pruning shears, and hori-hori knives could march in formation followed by ranks of master gardener volunteers busily paging through reams of OSU Extension bulletins. There would be speeches touting the virtues of tilth, soil texture and structure, loam, sand, silt, clay, organic matter and fertilizers.

 

I have never settled on a date for this dirty extravaganza. It could be the Tuesday after White Oak leaves reach the size of a squirrel’s ear? It could be a lot of fun. Mud wrestling, Night Crawler races, riding mower pulls. There could be contests for making the most mud pies in five minutes by different age groups, who can spade up a 10ft by 10ft. area the fastest and who has the loudest leaf blower? Prizes could be: plants, seeds or tools. When the day was over we could all go home and plant something in addition to our rear ends in a chair.

 

Finally, we will not be celebrating No Mow May or Kill the Lawn. Some of us may not be turning all of our lawns into a meadow. We may cut back on the size of our lawns by widening the areas of mulch around our trees, establishing a new flower or vegetable patch, planting a tree or shrub. We might want an area where kids can play and a way to get from one flower bed to the next.

 

The Master Gardener Volunteers are having their Plant Sale on May 17, 9am-1pm in the parking lot at the Pickaway County Library on N. Court St. Lots of plants, annuals and perennials are for sale. And, as always, the Helpline can be reached by calling the OSU Extension Office at 740-474-7534.

 

Things to do in the garden:

 

Everything! The month of May is a busy one. You can direct-seed corn, beans, potatoes, melons, cucumbers and squash. Those last three are usually planted in “hills” of groups of three or four plants. Place cheesecloth or row cover cloth over vines until they bloom. With any luck you will have prevented the cucumber beetles from invading the plants. This also works on the caterpillars of cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts.

 

You can set out tomato, pepper and eggplant plants if the soil is warm (60 degrees). There is still a chance of frost but each week the chances become less and less. Be prepared to cover those tender plants if frost threatens. Don't be tempted to over-fertilize tomatoes, extra nitrogen will delay ripening and produce more vine than fruit. Remember tomatoes can be planted deep with the top few branches of leaves above ground. Roots will form along the buried stem. If you stake your tomatoes put the stakes in before you plant. Consider pruning your tomatoes and peppers.

 

If you plan to put houseplants outside for the summer, a period of transitioning to the new environment will help assure their health and vigor. Fertilize and place in the shade. You can divide and move perennials now. As the soil warms (50 degrees) you can plant summer-flowering bulbs such as caladiums, cannas, dahlias, and gladioluses. You can begin spraying roses for black spot following the directions on the product.

 

Cut the seed pods off your lilacs (after the blooms fade), but do not prune the stems. If your lilacs are getting overgrown and leggy, cut a third of the old stems this year at the ground. Do this to a third next year and the final third the year after that. This way you will rejuvenate the bushes. Stake or cage floppy perennials like peonies. For bigger peonies, remove small buds near the larger ones. Ants on buds are not harmful.

 

Remember "June drop." It is a time when fruit trees rid themselves of excess fruit. This is a natural process. Then thin apples, peaches and other tree fruit (not cherries) to a fruit every six inches.  Pines can be pruned back. Cut just half of new “candle” growth, otherwise the branch will grow no further.

 

Mulch your beds after the soil has warmed. When you set out those tender plants protect against cutworms that can chew off new transplants. Use collars of aluminum foil, plastic, cardboard or other material to encircle the stem. The collars should extend into the soil an inch and above an inch or two. There are pesticides that can help control these pests (Google "cutworms extension”). I have also placed a toothpick in the ground right next to the plant stem with success.

 

This is a busy time for pollinators. When you spot a bug identify it before reaching for the spray. Fully 97% of the bugs in our gardens are beneficial or of no threat. Singular bugs are almost always beneficial predators. Crowds are often pests. Know your enemy! Consider starting a compost pile. Grass clippings, if not mulched and left on the lawn are a great “green” to add to the “brown.” Search (compost extension) for recipes.

Finally, it’s not how fast you mow but how high. Mow at least 3 inches high for a healthy lawn.

 

What is That Plant?

April 2025

 

PICKAWAY TO GARDEN

What is that Plant?

By Paul J. Hang

 

Recently, on 60 Minutes, I saw a segment about a factory in British Columbia that captures carbon out of the atmosphere in the form of CO2 and finds uses for it or stores it underground. It uses a chemical process to do this. Carbon and CO2 can be used in cement, plastic and other building materials and put the fizz in soft drinks. The process is fairly complicated and it uses fossil fuels and so is controversial. When the narrator referred to the factory as a plant I had to laugh.

 

I know of millions of plants that, using a chemical process, capture CO2 out of the air and find lots of uses for it and sequester it. The chemical process is called photosynthesis and the chemical is chlorophyll. The plants use energy from sunlight not fossil fuels and, Hydrogen from water and carbon from CO2 to produce sugar- the basis of life. Along the way they use carbon for their tissues (stems and leaves and roots). Oxygen is a by- product. Carbon is sequestered in trees and underground in their roots and in the soil. These plants produce food, fiber and useful chemicals.

 

Plants and animals also sequester carbon in our bodies. We return some CO2 in our breath when we breathe and plants when they transpire. When they and we die carbon is released through decomposition or continues to be sequestered. Long-dead prehistoric plants and animals were sequestering carbon in the form of coal, oil and gas. Then we burned it releasing all the CO2 which is now warming our atmosphere with catastrophic results. Until we sequester the same amount of carbon that we have released we will continue to get warmer. The answer is balance.

 

We do not sequester the amount of CO2 that we produce annually let alone reduce the surplus that we have built up. One of the best answers is to leave our old forests of big trees alone. Plantations of mono-cultures of trees do not do the job. Peter Wohlleben, the German Forester and author of “The Hidden Life of Trees,” covers the topic in his new book “The Power of Trees: How Ancient Forests can save us If We Let Them.”

 

No foolin the trees are bloom’in all around us. To identify the plants and trees around us, these two Plant ID apps can help; Pl@ntNet and iNaturalist. April 25^th is Arbor Day, time to plant trees. Join the City Tree Commission, Circleville High School students and city workers for an Arbor Day celebration at Barthelmas Park at 9am and see how to plant trees successfully. For information about planting and mulching trees see bygl.osu.edu. Gardening questions? Call the helpline at the Pickaway County Extension office at 740-474-7534.

 

Things to do in the garden:

Tomato, eggplant and pepper seeds should be started indoors. The seedlings should be moved from the cells after 4 weeks into larger pots. Move them into the garden only after hardening them off and the danger of frost is past. As usual make sure you water-in the transplants. When you water, water deeply (top six inches wet) and water the base of the plant not the foliage. Water when the plants need it, not every day. Most plants require 1 to 1 and a half inches of water per week.

 

Vegetables that can be planted by seed directly into the garden are: beets, carrots, peas, onions, spinach, leaf lettuce, radishes. These should be watered enough to keep the soil moist to begin germination. Don’t let them dry out. Beets and carrots should be thinned at the seedling stage. Cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli plants can be planted as soil and weather conditions allow. The soil temperature for cool weather plants should be 50 degrees, warm weather plants at least 60 and some even higher. Put an inch of compost on the beds.

 

Use row covers (Google it) on your vegetables right after planting to keep the bad bugs off. For vegetables that produce fruit (beans, cucumber, pepper, squash, etc.) remove the covers after blooming to let the pollinators go to work. Tomatoes are self-pollinating and so you could leave the covers on. For those that don’t need pollinating (Cabbage, broccoli, onions, chard, kale, lettuce, beets and radishes, etc.) you can leave the covers on until harvest. Make sure you buy the right covers that let in enough light and rain. I have found this to be an effective method to protect plants without insecticides. Place collars around transplants that are susceptible to cut worms.

 

Most annual flowers can be seeded directly into the soil after the danger of frost has abated. Some popular annuals that you should consider starting indoors are: snapdragon, wax begonia, sweet William, impatiens, sweet alyssum, petunia, gloriosa daisy, blue salvia, viola, pansy and zinnia, among others. This can save you a considerable amount of money that you can then spend on a perennial (native) plant.

Fertilize lawns lightly, if at all. The time to re-seed is when night time temps consistently reach 50 degrees and above. This is also the time to aerate lawns. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide now to prevent crabgrass, unless you plan to seed. When common lilac or Ohio buckeye begins to bloom it is too late for a pre-emergent herbicide to be effective and too early for a post-emergent. Leave clippings on the lawn. Their nitrogen content is high and will reduce the need to fertilize. Mowing height of at least three inches will retard the growth of crab grass and other weeds.

Unless you are prepared to cover plants in case of frost, don’t put out those tender plants such as tomatoes and peppers until mid-May or later when the soil warms up. The average last frost date is now April 23rd. There is a 50/50 chance of frost then and the chance decreases about 10% per week after that. Cool season transplants, after hardening them off, can be planted now (Lettuce, broccoli, kale, cabbage, and cauliflower).

Spring flowering bulbs should be fertilized after they bloom. Remember to leave the leaves of bulbs until they yellow. Brown is better. Pinch off any developing seed heads. If April brings its showers don’t work the soil if it is too wet.  Wait until it dries out a bit. If it seems wet enough to make a clay pot, wait. Squeeze a ball of earth about the size of golf ball and let it drop from waist high, if it breaks apart it’s ready to be worked. Don’t apply mulch until May. Allow the soil to warm.

Cut back your ornamental grasses to six inches or to the green stems. They can be divided now. Cut back your butterfly bushes (buddleia) to a foot or two and apply a balanced fertilizer. Prune spring blooming shrubs after they bloom. Bagworms on shrubs and trees hatch out shortly after the Snowmound Spirea blooms. This is when you can spray an insecticide (Bacillus thuringiensis, also called Bt, read the label) to kill the caterpillars. Now is the time to prune roses. Depending on the variety, you may prune back to a foot in height or to green growth. Fertilize monthly until Labor Day. You can plant new ones now. Large hostas can be divided as soon as they emerge.

Wait until several 50 plus degree days in a row before cleaning up debris of stems to save beneficial insects. If in doubt store them temporarily before putting them in the compost heap.Don’t prune your oak trees after the middle of the month or after they leaf out. Sap beetles are attracted to the open wounds and will bring oak wilt, a disease which will kill them and has been found in this part of the state. If pruning can’t be avoided paint the cuts with a pruning sealant. 

The Great Awakening

 

March 2025

PICKAWAY TO GARDEN

The Great Awakening

By Paul Hang

 

 

Beginning in the 1720’s and periodically to today, there have been waves of religious fervor and evangelical movements in America. These movements have been called Great Awakenings. They initiated religious conversions and spiritual regeneration. The term awakening implies a slumber and passivity that changes to a new awareness and subsequent beliefs and actions.

 

In March the earth has a great awakening. From a sleepy but often restless slumber, wintry earth begins to stir. If we are alert enough we will see the signs. We “see the light” as the days grow longer. The Spring Equinox marks the return of the sun to the northern hemisphere. The green spears of daffodils suddenly appear in the most unlikely of places. Likewise the blooming of snowdrops, Gilanthus nivalis, often pushes up through the snow to take a peek.

 

The signs are many: blooms of pussy willows seem to climb up the stems like their namesakes clinging to a curtain; the buds of trees swell. Some cannot be missed, like the huge terminal buds of the hickories. The Red maples look different, yet we don’t know why. Upon inspection we see the buds and why.  Then, from a distance, the whole tree seems to blush red as if our inspection has somehow invaded its sense of modesty.

 

Many people find the urge to join in this process. What young man hasn’t had his fancy turn to love in spring? The poets say, “Sweet lovers love the spring.” Gardening, tending to plants, puts us in sync with the happenings in nature. Observing changes in a plant gives lessons about seasonal changes. We see processes of growth, perhaps of flowering and going to seed, perhaps of the growth of stems and leaves. Perhaps the plant dies. These observations often lead us, by analogy, to notice the similarities to our own lives.

 

Observing nature hopefully makes us realize that we are a part of nature. Her rules and protocols apply to us as participants in processes beyond our making and control. Native Americans realized this and we ignore it at our peril. We are in need of a great awakening. We are on the earth and part of the earth. We are earthlings.

 

I recommend you spend more time observing nature. Even if it is just a single tree, bush or plant that you encounter on a regular basis on your daily routine, make a point of regularly taking notice. Or get a house plant to care for. Gardeners have an advantage as they are encountering plants most of the year. But even we can forget our relation- ship to plants. The very act of observing results in recognizing the other, the not-me. The changes, often with the seasons, of plant life can awaken in us the truth that we are all in this together.

 

 

 

Things to do in the garden:

 

Begin fertilizing houseplants with a weak solution. Now is a good time to propagate houseplants. Have your soil tested. Materials and directions are normally available at the OSU Extension Office.The last average frost date here in zone 6B is April 23^rd. That means there is a 50/50 chance of frost on that date. A number of seeds should be started this month. Check your seed packet for the number of days to harvest and count back to the date you want to plant your seeds or set out your plants. A word to the wise, don’t set out your plants too early unless you are prepared to protect them should the odds work against you.

 

Rake the lawn to remove the twigs, leaves, and other winter detritus. Mow high, 3-4 inches. Dig out those biennial weeds before they get established. Now is a good time to plant evergreen and other trees and shrubs and bare root roses. The earlier you transplant perennials the better they will do. When is the soil ready to be worked? Soil that sticks to your spade is too wet to work and will be compacted. Make a ball of soil and drop it. If it crumbles it is ready to work. 

 

Before those buds break, spray fruit trees with dormant oil. Read the directions. Prune damaged, diseased, and dead limbs. Also, prune those limbs that grow inward, suckers and water sprouts. Do not remove more than a third of the tree. Prune deciduous trees and shrubs that bloom in the summer. Prune spring flowering trees and shrubs after they bloom. Prune raspberry canes and grapevines and fall flowering clematis. Divide snowdrops after they have bloomed. You can plant spinach, radishes and peas from seed unless the soil is wet.

 

If you cut back perennials and ornamental grasses (tying up the grasses before cutting them back to about six inches saves a lot of clean up). Don’t throw them in the trash or onto the compost pile. Store them until we have a few warm days (temps above 50 F) to give overwintering insects a chance to emerge. Pull back mulch from around perennials on warm days but be prepared to cover them back up if a hard freeze threatens.

 

Late March and April is the time to apply a pre-emergent to the lawn if you want to prevent crabgrass. The best indicator for this is the first bloom of Callery Pear. But be forewarned, pre-emergents prevent seeds from sprouting. Apply pre-emergent on a calm day. There are now selective pre-emergents that do not affect grass seed. If you plan to seed any parts of your lawn, don’t apply a non-selective to those areas. This warning also applies to areas where you plan to plant vegetables and flowers by directly seeding in the soil. A light fertilization of the lawn is all you’ll need.

 

Go to weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd for phenology information on when plants flower and insects emerge. Gardening questions can be answered at the Pickaway County OSU Extension Office 740-474-7534.

Alien Invasion (UFO's)

 

February 2025

PICKAWAY TO GARDEN

Alien Invasion (UFO’s)

By Paul Hang

 

This story may invade your consciousness, out competing other thoughts for a short period of time. UFO’s (Uncontrolled Foreign Organisms) are recognized this month. February 24-28 has been designated National Invasive Species Week. There are a lot of invasive species: fish, insects, mammals, birds. And, some would argue, that we earthlings, are an invasive species. However, what we cover here are plants. What is an invasive plant?

 

An invasive plant is “an alien (non-native) species whose introduction does or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” Invasive plants are often spread by human activity often unintended. Invasive plants are often confused with aggressive plants. “Aggressive plants are species that spread rapidly and can outcompete other plant species. Aggressive plants can be native or non-native, and they may be aggressive in some situations, but not others.” They may or may not be invasive.

 

“Native plants …are adapted to local climate and soils. They have co-evolved with native insects and wildlife and are critical to ecosystems functions…native plants are those species present prior to wide-spread European settlement.” “Non-native plants are those introduced to a new place or habitat.” They did not evolve locally and may not support ecosystem health. They can be introduced from other countries or other areas of a country (Colorado Blue Spruce). An ecosystem is a biological community of interacting organisms and their physical environment.

 

Invasive plants are often introduced because they are pretty (Burning Bush), smell nice (Japanese Honeysuckle), have an impressive size (Siberian Elm) or shape, are exotic or unique (Callery Pear). They may be brought in for food for wildlife (Autumn Olive), domestic animals (Kudzu), pollinators or humans (Garlic Mustard). They may provide shade (Norway maple), fast growth (English Ivy) or erosion control. Some arrive by accident (Emerald Ash Borer).

 

They, by definition, harm forests and their understories(the non-native Bush Honeysuckles), wetlands (Purple Loosestrife), lawns (Lesser Celandine), fields (Common Teasel), gardens, waterways and landscapes. They alter these by obstructing sunlight, depleting oxygen, clog waterways (Phragmites), alter the chemistry or composition of soil, smother or crowd out other vegetation (Japanese Stiltgrass), hybridize with other species (White Mulberry), reduce forage for livestock, are toxic to humans and other animals (Poison Hemlock), form thickets (Common Privet), have thorns (Multi-floral Rose), harbors ticks (Common Barberry), increase fire risk. They can be allopathic i.e. exuding chemicals that suppress other competing plants (Tree of Heaven). They alter habitats and outcompete native plants. This is not an exhaustive list. There are lists of prohibited noxious weeds of which some are invasive and some not. All invasives are non-native but not all non-natives are invasive. All invasives are aggressive but not all aggressives are invasive. UFO’s have been identified, you read it here.

 

Things to do in the garden:

 

Check perennials and bulbs for heaving out of the ground. Press them down gently with your foot. Make a list of plants you want. Inventory seeds you have saved to make sure they aren’t past viability. Send in your seed orders. When you make out your seed and plant orders consider planting more native and heirloom plants. Native plants are plants that evolved here and are adapted to our conditions, diseases and native pests. While you’re at it try googling the name of a flower you’re thinking about ordering.  You will be able to see pictures and planting information.

 

This is the time to prune trees and shrubs (after you sharpen your tools). You can see their structure now that they are dormant and the leaves are down. Cut out crossing and rubbing branches and unwanted suckers.  Pruning can be done to reduce the size of a tree or shrub to bring it in to balance or to remove overhanging branches blocking a view or path. Insects are less likely to be attracted to cuts while trees are dormant. Remember, spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after flowering if you want to enjoy the blooms. Summer flowering shrubs can be pruned now. Cut back butterfly bush (Buddleia) severely.

 

On smaller trees you may want to take care of problems yourself. On larger trees you should call in an expert to inspect and perhaps correct any problems. Arborists are in a slow time of year. The ground, if frozen, will not be damaged and compacted as much from equipment and crews. The Arbor Day Foundation recommends that you have Certified Arborists check any safety problems you may have noticed. To find them go to www.isa-arbor.com click on “Verify Certification” and then “Find an Arborist.” They will not recommend topping your trees. The City of Circleville has a Comprehensive Tree Plan. You can find it at ci.circleville.oh.us, in the search box type Tree Plan. There you will find lots of information on caring for trees.

 

If you dug up bulbs for storage check on them. Spritz them with water to prevent drying out. Throw away any rotting or shriveled ones. Water any dormant or overwintering plants in your garage or basement. Water houseplants with lukewarm water, don’t overwater and turn them a quarter turn once a week, no fertilizer yet.

 

Seeds of onions, cabbage, cauliflower, and other members of the Cole family can be started indoors this month for setting out in late March or early April, depending on the weather: The University of Minnesota has a good discussion; go to www.extension.umn.edu/garden /flowers/starting-seeds-indoors. Also Google Winter Sowing. There you will read how to recycle plastic milk bottles to easily germinate some seeds. It is a good way to raise a lot of seedlings for planting “drifts,” those bands of like plants that wander serpentinely through flower beds. Now is a good time to start building raised vegetable garden beds.

Stillness

 

January 2025

Pickaway to Garden

Stillness

By Paul Hang

 

Several days ago the astronomical new year began. December 21^st marked the first day of winter and the shortest day of the year. It was the Winter Solstice. That is the day when the sun appears to stand still, if only for a second. That moment was when the earth’s axis pointed exactly away from the sun, in our annual revolution around old Sol. That pause should give us pause.

 

As the calendar year begins let us pause and be still. Gardening is movement; digging, weeding, pruning, mulching and all manner of activities. At this time of year let’s take a hint from the sun and be still for a while. Take the time to just be still. Being still gives time to contemplate, appreciate, rest.

 

As I have said before, I enjoy thinking and writing about gardening about as much as the activity of gardening. I like to think about what gardening does for me. I get physical exercise, fresh air, a purpose, a reason to get out of the house during my “retirement.” I enjoy the beauty of plants and the wildlife my garden attracts (except for the neighbor’s cats). I like to hear the birds, smell the flowers and the earth, see the insects going about their business. I enjoy the cycles of the seasons and their effect on plants and us.

 

While you’re being still, think about why you garden or why you might like to garden. Even if it is house plant or two, caring for them is gardening. Read a book about gardening or nature. Be leisurely. The days are getting noticeably longer. The earth will begin to stir, ever so slightly. It will be time, soon enough, to mark those seed and plant catalogs with what you might like, to plan and order supplies before another busy season. Ignore the “Things to do in the garden” if just for a little while.

 

If you are choosing to start some plants from seed indoors, better get your supplies together. Peruse the seed catalogs. Dream a little. Someone said “The best gardener is one who does the most gardening by the winter fire.”

 

Things to do in the garden:

 

The list of things to do in the garden has gotten shorter. Things we can do about gardening are: Review last year's garden; draw a map while you can still remember what grew where. Plan your gardens and plantings. One of my favorite guides for this is The Ohio Gardening Guide by Jerry Minnich.

 

Check your supply of old seeds. Are they expired? Do you want to reorder that variety? Read your new seed catalogs. Want some more seed catalogs? Go to gardeningplaces.com. Order seeds and plants of new varieties that you want now. They usually sell out quickly.

 

Believe it or not, by the end of the month, you can begin to grow members of the Allium family (Onions, Leeks, Garlic and Shallots) from seed indoors. You can get ready by getting your seed starting supplies together. Make sure you provide plenty of light.

 

Cut back on watering your houseplants and don’t fertilize until March or April when growth begins as the amount of light lengthens, rinse/dust leaves, turn the pots every few days. When your poinsettias are looking ragged throw them on the compost heap. The same goes for paper whites. In my opinion it is not worth trying to get them to bloom again. If you like a challenge, go ahead but be prepared for disappointment. Amaryllis and Christmas cactus are exceptions and can be kept for re-blooming. Check the internet for instructions.

 

Establish a new bed by placing black plastic or several layers of newspaper, cardboard or even old carpet down over the area you’ve chosen for the new bed. Weight it down so the wind doesn’t disturb it. By late spring the vegetation under it should be dead and the space ready for planting.

 

Learn to sharpen your tools, trowels, pruners, spades and if you are adventurous, your mower blades. Oil them and use linseed oil on the wooden handles. Getting rid of a cut live Christmas tree? Don’t. Use it to serve as a wind break for evergreens. Cut the branches off and use them as mulch for perennials. Put it near your bird feeders as cover. Decorate it with suet, fruit, seed cakes, as a bird feeder. Chip it for mulch. If you have a pond, sink it for structure cover for fish. The needles can also be mulch and will not make the soil too acidic. If you had a balled live Christmas tree, plant it ASAP.

 

Some gardening resolutions: Rotate vegetable crops; water the base of plants, not from above; weed and mulch; use row covers; water newly planted trees and shrubs; visit and scout your garden often. Happy New Year.

Simple Gifts

 

December 2024

 

Pickaway to Garden

Simple Gifts

By Paul J. Hang

 

 

Simple Gifts is the title of an old 1848 Shaker tune made famous by Aaron Copeland in his ballet Appalachian Spring. It is not a Christmas Carol but it is a good recommendation for giving Christmas presents. Consider giving simple gifts. I have lately been telling family members that I would prefer gifts that do not come with an operator’s or owner’s manual. Keep it simple. Like a lot of people, I often don’t read directions until I’m stumped. I like gifts that don’t need directions, simple.

 

We can give gifts and receive them. We can also give ourselves a gift. If you are a gardener, give yourself the gift of leisure this holiday season. Enjoy the time off from gardening chores. Don’t even think about gardening, if you can. If you can’t, don’t beat yourself up about failures. There are many reasons for failures in the garden, pests, disease, weather. Don’t dwell on them but resolve to do what you can next year. If there is something you would like for a gift, tell someone. It’s simple.

 

If you’re giving a gardening gift, make it simple. A simple tool with no owner’s manual is good. My three essential tools are: a spade, a soil knife, a scuffle or Hula Hoe. A close runner-up is pruning shears. Make them good ones. They cost over $50.00. Other simple gifts are: a book, a botanical print, gloves, aprons, boots, knee pads. You could give a plant but be careful. It’s not that simple. They may not be ready. If not, it will be a burden. It might be a source of guilt if they can’t take care of it and it dies, or they give it away. Or, they might not like it. Ask what they might like in the way of a plant or if they would even like a plant. It’s simple. A gift certificate is really simple.

 

It is often said that the best gift is a gift of time, yours or theirs. A hand made gift is usually much appreciated. Or give them some time. Offer to rake leaves, cut grass, spade up or till the garden, help with spring cleanup or planting. Put it in writing. Don’t have the time? Pay someone to do a gardening task. This is especially nice for us old folks or someone who is physically limited. For yourself, put off ordering seeds and planning the garden. There will be time enough for that in January and February. “Tis’ the gift to be simple tis’ the gift to be free tis’ the gift to come down where we ought to be and when we find ourselves in the place just right T’will be in the valley of love and delight.”

 

Gardening questions can be asked at the Master Gardener Volunteer Helpline at our local Cooperative Extension office at 740-474-7534.

​

Things to do in the garden:

 

Thankfully, there are not too many things to do IN the garden as much as there are things to do ABOUT the garden. If you haven’t already done so, clean up crop debris. Get the vegetable garden ready for spring. Leave stems in the perennial beds. If you must, trim them to 18 inches high for overwintering beneficial insects’ eggs and pupae. If it remains dry, continue to water evergreens and perennial plants, particularly those planted this year, until the ground is frozen hard.

 

On nice days wander about your place (your National Park). Notice the birds, listen for their songs and calls, old nests, egg masses, perhaps a Mourning Cloak butterfly, see the colors and textures of bare trees and plants. Notice how some plants continue to develop. If the local temperature reaches 50 degrees they grow, only to cease when the temperature falls below.   

 

Those bitter cress weeds are small now. I find them in between the bricks of my walk. They, along with false dead nettle and ground ivy in the beds and in the lawn are trying to gain a foothold now while they have little competition. The biennial mullein with its fuzzy lamb's ear-like leaves is growing flat against the earth. Rosettes of poison hemlock and teasel continue to grow. Dig them up while you have the chance or spray with an herbicide according to the directions on the label. Get them before the weather turns warm and they turn tougher.

 

If the ground remains open it’s still not too late to plant lilies, tulips and daffodils. You may find some bargains. Avoid the soft and shriveled ones. Check houseplants for insects. Move clay pots inside to prevent breaking. Plant native seeds directly over snow or frozen ground. Go to www.backyardhabitat.info.

 

Wrap young tree trunks with hardware cloth or the plastic wrap made for that purpose. Protect them from ground level to about 18 inches.  This also goes for newly planted shrubs. Place fencing around them. This prevents mice, voles and rabbits from using the bark as lunch. If they girdle the plants, they will die. A little light pruning of trees and shrubs while they are dormant won’t hurt. Damaged, rubbing or simply inconvenient small branches can be removed. Never top trees in any season. When harvesting or buying firewood use only from local sources less than 20 miles. This helps prevent the spread of bugs and diseases harmful to trees.

 

In the vegetable garden, write down and/or map where you planted what this year. This will aid in crop rotation. Use sand and/or ice melt, not rock salt, on your walks, salt is harmful to plants including grass and contaminates ground water. Gift ideas for gardeners: a good spade, soil knife, scuffle hoe, gloves, mud boots, books.

Giving Thanks

 

November 2024

 

Pickaway to Garden

Giving Thanks

By Paul J. Hang

 

 

November is one of those transition months. It is not fall and yet not winter.

I feel the year and time is fleeting. The green has gone, hurried by a frost in mid-October. Plant life has either died or gone dormant or underground. With the exception of the oaks and beeches, the trees have shed their leaves accelerated by the gale winds of the Witch of November. The nuts have fallen from the trees and some have run for election. The shorter days, the loss of light as the Sun approaches its nadir, adds to the gloom.

 

November brings elections and voting, Veterans Day and Thanksgiving. It brings lots of tasks in the garden and yard. There are leaves to take care of, bulbs to plant and some to dig up and store, vegetable gardens to clean up, and all the things to do in the so-named list at the end of this article. Sometimes I feel like I have so many things to do I can’t get anything done.

 

When I focus on such things that November is not; no bird song, no butterflies, no hummingbirds, no flowers, no ripe tomatoes or corn, I am full of regret and just a little depressed. I regret that I have not accomplished all the tasks in the garden that I should have.

 

Then, I remember that at the end of the month is Thanksgiving. I can focus on the things that November is; birds at the feeder, the smell of wood smoke, a crackling fire, apples and cider, a turkey dinner with family and friends. There are still a few perennials and bulbs and a tree or two to plant. I can still find a few more days to work out doors. Digging in the dirt, physical exercises, admiring the subtle beauty of nature and the light this time of year, all affect my mood.

 

And finally there is this; a microbe found in soil, Mycobacterium vaccae, has been found to increase brain serotonin, which acts as an anti-depressant in humans. This happens when people are working in the soil. Just another reason why gardening makes us feel good. Dr. Christopher Lowry of the University of Colorado Boulder is studying these bacteria. You can see his TED Talk on YouTube.

 

Things to do in the Garden:

 

Now is a good time to do soil tests. You have time (3 to 6 months) to amend your soil if required. You will avoid the spring rush. To obtain soil sampling instructions and kits along with specific recommendations contact the local Cooperative Extension Office 740-474-7534.The Helpline is also available at the same number. It’s not too late to plant spring flowering bulbs. Spring bulbs look best in a cluster. Try excavating an area rather than planting them in single holes. Lift tender bulbs (caladiums, dahlias, glads etc.) and store for the winter. Sow seeds of hardy annuals (calendula, bachelor’s buttons). Mums can be “tidied up” but don’t trim back until spring.

 

Tender roses should be “hilled up,” mound the soil a foot deep around the base to protect the crowns. Also a wire cage filled with leaves surrounding them as protection can be added. Final pruning should be done in the spring, but long spindly canes can be trimmed off now. Climbing roses or ramblers should be tied to prevent injury from being whipped around by harsh winter winds. Do not fertilize. Clean up all dead and diseased rose leaves and put in the trash. Peonies can be cut to the ground to control the fungi and disease for which they are prone to develop. Dispose of the stems and leaves in the trash.

 

A light fall fertilization of your lawn can be done now. Do not allow leaves to form a matted layer on the lawn. Rake and compost heavy layers of leaves. Running the mower over the rows of leaves at right angles a couple times will reduce them to half inch pieces which earth worms will pull into the soil. The latest recommendation is to continue to cut your lawn at 2.5-3 inches as long as it continues to grow. Run the gas out of your lawn and garden machinery or add gas stabilizer for storage.

 

November is a good month to plant most trees. For two short informative videos, go to; http://bit.ly/PlantATreeCbus. When your trees go dormant you can view; http://bit.ly/PruneATreeCbus and see how to prune them properly.

Make sure leaves and mulch are not heaped against the trunks of trees. Bring the mulch a few inches to a foot away from the trunks of all trees. You may also want to stake newly planted trees from the winds of winter and early spring storms. Generally new trees more than 2” diameter don’t need staking. Consult ohioline.osu.edu for staking and other gardening information. Evergreens and shrubs should be watered deeply. Apply an anti-desiccant to broadleaf evergreens after it freezes. Wait until dormant to do any normal pruning. Do not prune spring flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, spirea etc.) if you want them to bloom this spring.

 

Take stock by taking notes and map your garden while you can still remember where the plants were. This is particularly important for the vegetable garden. Remove the stalks from asparagus when they turn yellow or brown and mulch the strawberries with straw. You can still plant garlic. Clean your gardening tools and put them away. A coat of oil can prevent rust. A light coating of linseed oil on wooden handles prevents splitting due to weathering and drying. Drain garden hoses and store. At the very least disconnect from the outdoor spigots. Make sure underground irrigation lines are drained or blown dry with a compressor.

 

Remove the dead plants from containers and, if not diseased, compost. Unglazed terracotta pots must be stored indoors or they will be destroyed by freezing. The same goes for fragile garden ornaments. Synthetic containers can be left outdoors. Stop or reduce fertilizing indoor plants. Weed the vegetable garden and compost non-diseased debris. Place diseased materials in the trash. Remove stakes and cages, clean and store. Plant a cover crop or cover with mulch, leave no bare ground..

 

Consider leaving the stems and seed heads of perennials, Rose of Sharon is an exception. Nature is not compelled to neatness. She leaves cover for pollinators and butterflies to overwinter themselves or their pupae and eggs. You can clean up in the spring. Cut off dead annuals and, if not diseased, compost them. Now your beds are tucked in and settled down for a long winter’s nap.