What’s the distress all about? No, it’s not to warn us about hippies or Druids dancing and prancing in states of undress around the Maypole. The alarm is that, nice weather aside the average last frost day in south central Ohio is May 15. That’s right, May 15, or mid May. That’s our climate. What with global warming, the climate may change (no pun intended). But for now be forewarned. If you want to chance it, and I am all for experimenting in the garden, put your tender plants out into the garden before the Ides of May. But don’t say I didn’t warn you. Just to be safe have your cloches, milk jugs, cans, jars, bed sheets, old shower curtains, newspapers etc., handy to cover those tender plants from a forecast frost.
One way to safeguard those newly sprouted plants from the vagaries of spring weather is to harden them off. So what is “hardening off?” It is a process of getting plants ready to go out into the garden. We gradually let plants accommodate themselves to the outside. Having been “born” and raised in the sheltered conditions of indoors most plants can’t stand the shock of being put outdoors twenty-four, seven without a period of time to acclimate.
Start by putting plants out in a sheltered place out of strong sun and wind for a couple hours a day for a week or so. Gradually expose them to the sun for longer periods of time for another week or so. Then, depending on the weather, you can safely transplant them to their designated place in your garden. However, be prepared to cover them in case of frost. I have spent many a frantic hours, in the dark, trying to cover my garden by flashlight, running out of covers, trying to decide if I really should use my wife’s Easter Bonnet to cover that heirloom tomato. Good luck!
Once the danger of frost has passed (by mid-May, it’s a 50/50 chance) you can plant annual seeds out doors. They will have enough time to flower. Most do well in average soil and in full sun. By planting seeds you can get more varieties than are available at local nurseries and you save lots of money. Read the instructions (yes, it’s also good advice for more than assembling things) on the seed packet.
For those of you who buy your tomato plants, keep in mind that they are either determinate or indeterminate. What? Yes, determinate tomato plants will produce fruit all at once, well almost. The plum type, such as Roma, tomatoes are determinate. Indeterminate tomato plants, once they start producing, produce until frost kills the plant. Determinate plants are good for canning because you can do your work over a short period of time. Indeterminate plants are good for the table as they produce over a longer period of time. Don’t over-fertilize with nitrogen or you’ll have nice big plants with no fruit.
While I seem to be full of warnings, let me give you at least one more. Nothing is more discouraging than to set out transplants only to go out in the garden and find them all mowed down. They look like a miniature Paul Bunyan went along the rows and chopped them down like so many trees. Among the worst threats to young plants (excluding rabbits) are cutworms. There are many species. They cut off the stems at, above, or just below the soil surface. Tomatoes, peppers, members of the cabbage family, peas and beans are the plants most often attacked by cutworms.
When you set out your plants, cardboard collars (paper towel tubes cut into 2 inch pieces work well) placed around young stems, pushed one inch into the ground, will give protection. Some people use one-inch long plastic soda straws, slit lengthwise and placed around the stem, pushed one-third their length into the soil. Be careful (another warning) not to injure the roots.
Our local Master Gardener Association is having their annual Plant Sale May 15, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. at the Library parking lot on N. Court Street. Also, beginning May 1 until September, our hotline is open for your gardening questions. Call
Things to do in the garden:
What isn’t there to do? This is planting time. Early in the month put in the hardy plants. Mid-May the half-hardy plants and late May to early June the tender warm weather plants can go in. Be careful not to let the roots dry out on your transplants while they lay there waiting for you to tuck them in for the season.
Mulch your beds after the soil warms up. Most gardeners define “warmed up” as 65 degrees at the depth that seeds are planted. Our clay soils warm up later than sandy soils. If in doubt, take your soil’s temperature. Mulching too early keeps the earth too cool for good plant growth or seed germination.
Prune flowering shrubs after the blooms have faded. You can cut the seed heads of the spring flowering bulbs but not the leaves. They need to produce food for the bulbs for next spring. Let them brown before removing.
There really are too many things to mention that need to be done in the garden this month. May I give one last warning? Don’t overdo it!
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