Talking Dirty

May is from the Latin Maius a form of Maia who was a goddess of fertility. The word also means, among other things, possibility. The possibility of fertility is cause for celebration this month. Back in February, I suggested that we ought to have a celebration called Ground Hug Day! At the time no one in their right mind would go out and hug the ground. If they tried it they would have been met with a cold embrace indeed, a frigid response. May is a much better time for such a celebration. Why hug the ground? Well, consider what it does. Not only does the ground support our weight, keeping us from sinking to the center of the earth, it allows us to grow our food, building materials and fuel as well as the flowers that bring beauty into our lives.

Ground, dirt, soil, mud and grime, no matter what you call it, is worthy of a respectful consideration. As a gardener I prefer the term soil. Soil is the ground we dedicate to growing our veggies, flowers and other ornamental plants. Soil is also the preferred term of those in the various agricultural businesses. Soil is made up of sand, silt, clay and rock, the mineral matter. It also contains bacteria, fungi and algae, the microbe constituents. We also find animals in the soil, worms, insects, snakes and mammals. Finally, good garden soil contains organic matter, decaying matter that was once alive.

Two constituents of soil that are often overlooked are water and surprisingly, air. Yes, air is a requirement for a good growing medium. Plants’ roots must be able to take in oxygen or they will die. Overwatering can wilt and even kill a plant because it drowns them. Soil texture is the relative volume of sand, silt and clay particles in a soil. Soil texture affects the water-holding capacity of soil, movement of water through the soil, and ease of cultivation.

Good garden soil contains the following ingredients: 45% mineral, 5% organic, 30% water, and 20% air. Ideal garden soil is called loam. To experience the texture of your garden soil, moisten a small amount of soil to the consistency of putty (or cookie dough). Roll it into a small ball about the size of a golf ball. Press the ball. If the ball breaks apart and feels gritty the soil is sandy. If the ball sticks together when pressed but will not form a ribbon longer than a half-inch it is loam. If, when you squeeze the ball, it sticks together, shows finger marks and can be worked to form a long ribbon you have clay. Around here most of us can make pots out of our soil.

Soil structure results from the binding together of soil particles into aggregates or clumps of varying sizes and shapes Soil structure is critical to plant health because it affects root growth. Good soil structure allows air and water movement, and it provides channels through which roots grow. Organic matter in soil attracts worms that drill channels deep into the sub soil. Roots of plants enlarge openings in the soil and add organic matter when they die and decay.

Improving soil structure is an ongoing goal of gardeners. Unfortunately soil structure cannot be changed easily. Adding organic matter and not overworking the soil, especially when wet, are the two most important things you can do to improve soil structure.

Now you have the dirt on soil. Admittedly this has been a simple explanation of a complicated subject (there are thousands of soil types). So if you can’t bring yourself to give the ground a hug why not at least give it a squeeze?
Master Gardener Volunteer Week is May15-21. The theme for this year is Invasive Plants, which are a growing problem, no pun intended. Some invasive plants of concern are Amur bush honeysuckle, garlic mustard, burning bush, privet hedge, Japanese barberry, purple loosestrife, autumn olive, buckthorn, ailanthus or what we always called stink tree or Tree of Heaven. Invasive plants take over and crowd out our native plants. Many were introduced innocently enough for the landscape industry or as food or for medicinal reasons. Don’t buy or plant them and, when you can, eliminate them from your landscape.

Our Garden Helpline began in mid-April and will run until late September. You can call in your gardening questions or email them. A local Master Gardener Volunteer (MGV) will get back to you with an answer, to request more information or to recommend additional resources. You can call 474-7534 or email your question to PCMGVhotline@yahoo.com.

Pickaway County MGVs are having our Plant Sale May 21 from 9am-1pm. It will be held at the Library on N. Court Street in the south parking lot. Stop in for some great deals and unusual plants. Mark your calendar so you don’t forget. I know how it is. Believe me.

Things to do in the garden:
Everything. Virtually every garden chore needs to be done in May. Remember the average last frost date is May 15 here in Zone 6. By then you can plant out most everything whether plants or seeds but be prepared to cover tender plants such as tomatoes, melons, cucumbers and peppers should frost be forecast.
If you started plants from seeds don’t forget to gradually acclimate them to the outdoors before setting them out to fend for themselves. Fifty degree or warmer nights seem to be the safest point at which even tender plants can be safely left out on their own. We should also acclimate our body to the garden. Limit the heavy work until you’re used to it. If you don’t, you will suffer gardener’s hamstrings and forty achres, as a rule.

Pruning of flowering shrubs should be done after they flower. You can fertilize them before or during bloom. You can cut the seed pods off your lilacs but don’t prune the stems. If your lilacs are getting too tall or leggy cut one third of the branches off at the ground. Do this for three years and you will have brought them back to size and rejuvenated them. And, you won’t give up blooms.

Late blooming lilies can still be divided. When spreading mulch don’t put down more than a couple inches deep. Don’t allow the mulch to touch the plants. Please don’t mound the mulch up around your trees, the dreaded “volcano trees.” This promotes surface roots and rot and will harm your trees. Keep the mulch three or four inches from the trunk.