Pinch Me

July 2013

Pickaway to Garden

Pinch me!

By Paul Hang

“Pinch me I must be dreaming.” I’m sure you’ve heard this phrase before. I couldn’t find where it originated and its meaning seems to have many interpretations. I take it to mean a reality check. This is the summer we have really been waiting for. We are at a mid-point.  As Edwin Way Teale said, “July looks back to spring and forward to fall.”

July brings a dreamy time with long lazy days when it seems time stands still. It seems this time will never end. But soon we will notice the days grow shorter. Summer has just begun but the growing season is well advanced. We will see the plants grow towards maturity. Baby birds, rabbits and ground hogs get noticeably bigger and not so cute. Saplings of trees and shrubs struggle to gain height. This too shall pass and we begin to think of the things we want to do before the summer flees. By the end of the month reality becomes hard to ignore.

One way to continue the dream in the garden is to pinch your plants. I’m not talking about that affectionate squeeze on the cheek for which grandmothers and aunts are famous. For gardeners, a “soft pinch” cuts off about an inch off the growing tip of a plant. A “hard pinch” cuts off several tiers of leaves, several inches of the stem. Gardeners pinch plants to make them bushier, to delay bloom and to cause more blooms. The pinching can be done with your thumb and forefinger or with shears. The result is a plant that will be shorter and bushier than if you left it un-pinched.

Some plants grow so tall they will get lanky and flop over. Some plants flop naturally such as bee balm and Russian sage and some flop because they are growing in very fertile soils or in too shady conditions. Most of us are familiar with pinching mums and tomatoes. Phlox, asters, dahlias, Autumn Joy and other sedums can also benefit from pinching. Some plants should not be pinched, such as daylilies. If you forgot to pinch, cut the long stem of the first flower in the center of a plant. It will force side shoots to develop and produce more flowers

Research specific plants to determine, if, when and how to pinch.  As usual if you can’t find the information you want on ohioline.osu.edu go to the Extension websites of the universities of neighboring states. If your research doesn’t mention pinching you can experiment. Pinch half the plants in a bed and watch for the results. You probably aren’t going to hurt the plant by pinching or not pinching.

Pinching is done before a plant blooms. To cut or prune a plant after it blooms is called dead heading. Dead heading removes spent flowers and developing seed pods. Once a plant  flowers and the flower is pollinated the next step is to produce seed and shut down and die back. By removing the spent flower or seed pods we force the plant to continue to flower. Its energy is redirected to new growth and blooms. With herbs removing buds forces the plant to continue the growth of foliage. Plants that benefit us by deadheading (we like to think it benefits the plants) are zinnias, roses, petunias, coleus, marigold and geraniums.

Please support the Farmers Market at E. Franklin Street, Saturdays 8:30am to 12:30pm. Fresh produce, plants and flowers are for sale by local growers.

Things to do in the garden:

This is the time to dry herbs. The best flavor is to harvest just before they flower. Pick on a sunny dry day and in the morning, if dry weather is forecast, so much the better. Hang them upside down in a hot, dry, dark, well ventilated spot in an attic, barn or shed. This is also the time to harvest garlic and hang them to dry and cure.

The gardening season is in full swing. Weeding, deadheading and watering are high on the list of routine activities. If July turns out to be bone dry water the equivalent of one inch per week. Mulch to conserve moisture and keep down weeds. If you haven’t mulched yet do so after a soaking thunderstorm or a good watering. Vegetables higher in water content need more water e.g. watermelons vs. green beans.

Fall gardens can be planted this month and into August. Read your seed package for the number of days from planting to maturity and count back from October 15^th our average first frost date. With luck and protection most cool weather plants can survive frost.  A problem with starting seeds outside in hot dry weather can be addressed by starting them indoors or on the porch where you can keep them watered. Acclimate the seedlings to the sun before planting. Root crops are best started outside. Water well before planting and then don’t let the soil dry until germination then water as usual. Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels’ sprouts, carrots, radishes, parsnips, lettuces and spinach are all good candidates for cool weather.

Keep the lawn cut at 3 inches. If we get a long dry spell, don’t forget to water your compost heap. It needs to remain moist for fast decomposition.

Going on vacation? Water well before you leave. Place potted plants in a shady area. They should do fine for a week depending on the weather. If you will be gone longer have someone reliable come over and water regularly.

If your grafted trees or roses are sprouting below the graft, cut the sprouts off.

Keep picking seed pods off the annuals and clipping spent flowers (deadheading) to encourage bloom all summer. If appropriate pinch plants to encourage later blooming.