Propagation

March 2015

PICKAWAY TO GARDEN

 

Propagation

By Paul Hang

 

The birds and the bees are important partners in the garden but I am not referring to that kind of propagation. However, now that I have your attention, let’s consider plant propagation. Plants can be propagated from seed, sexual reproduction (which produces offspring genetically different from the parents), or from rhizomes, bulbs, corms, roots, tubers, leaves, runners and stolons (asexual reproduction). In addition, asexual reproduction can be accomplished by our intervention using cuttings, division, grafting and tissue culture. Asexual reproduction produces offspring genetically identical to the parent, a clone. Seed seems the most natural method. March is a good month to propagate plants from seed.

 

The last average frost date here in zone 6 is April 23^rd. A number of seeds should be started this month. Check your seed packet for the number of days for germination and count back from the date you want to set out your plant. The last average frost date means there is a fifty-fifty chance of frost on that date. That’s the same odds as flipping a coin. If you set out a lot of tender plants on that date would you flip a coin to determine whether you have to go out and cover all of them? A word to the wise, don’t set out your plants too early unless you are prepared to protect them should the odds work against you. In March spring is just around the corner but it depends upon which corner you reside.

 

Starting plants from seed is a way to save money, a way to obtain hard to find plants and cultivars, a fascinating process and just plain fun. Seeds require several conditions to germinate, moisture, heat, light and air. There are some seeds that don’t require light and some seeds need scarification (the outer cover must be abraded or nicked) or stratification (a period of exposure to cold, whether dry or moist) and some need both. Your seed packet should say what the requirements are.

 

There are all kinds of seed starting products on the market. The cost of most of them will not save you money. I will give you my method, which although it costs some money, is not expensive. If you plan to start seeds in the years to come the investment will pay off. I start two flats of plants in my basement. That’s 96 or 144 plants depending on the type of flats you have. Use a soil-less mix that is sterile that you moisten but not so much that water comes out when you squeeze it. I use two shop lights for a total of four four-foot fluorescent bulbs. I use two warm bulbs and two cold bulbs. You can also use a heating mat if your situation is very cool.

 

Plant the seeds in the cells at a depth three times the width of the seed. Water lightly. Cover the flats with plastic (a dry cleaners bag works great). Place the lights just one inch above the flats. Keep the lights on about 16 hours a day (a timer helps). Check every day. As seeds germinate uncover. Begin to blow a small fan over the flats. This prevents the fungus which causes “damping off” where the young seedlings fall over and die. As the plants grow raise the lights to keep them just above the plants. Keep the flats watered from the bottom when they begin to dry out. Fertilize lightly. Depending on the date you can remove the plants when they have developed their true leaves (not the first two leaf-like cotyledons) and transplant into larger pots. Acclimate the plants for at least a week before planting out in the garden. For more information go to ohioline.osu.edu

 

I have been propagating plants from seed for years and these methods are most often recommended and have proven to be successful for me. You do not need to use flats but can use just about any sterile container that can drain. Using a sunny windowsill can work for some but I have not had good luck using that method.

 

The next time you talk with a youngster about the birds and the bees, add begonias. Just think, six months from now we’ll be in September.

 

There is still time to apply to train to be a Master Gardener Volunteer. Classes will be held on Thursdays in April and May. Cost is $150 for classes, a manual and background check. Call me 740-4974397 or email at phang@columbus.rr.com for an application. Pickaway County MGVolunteers volunteered 1,679 hours last year.

 

Things to do in the garden:

 

Begin fertilizing houseplants with a weak solution. March is not too late to try winter sowing. What is winter sowing? Google “winter sowing” for more information. Have your soil tested. Materials and directions are available at the OSU Extension Office.

 

Start your seeds indoors for hardy plants (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels' sprouts, onions, garlic, leeks, and shallots) if you haven’t already. You can set them out later in the month weather permitting. Most flower seeds, annuals or perennials, can also be started. Wait till later in the month to start the half-hearty plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant unless you are prepared to transplant to a larger container.  Always check the seed envelope for planting information. Once the soil can be worked plant lettuce, spinach, peas, beets, carrots, chard and radish seeds directly into the soil. You can plant peas, shell or pods, this month. Remember the last average frost date is now April 23^rd.

 

Rake the lawn to remove the twigs, leaves, and other winter detritus. Dig out those biennial weeds before they get established. Now is a good time to plant trees and shrubs and bare root roses. Before those buds break spray fruit trees with dormant oil. Read the directions. Prune damaged diseased and dead limbs. Also, prune those limbs that grow inward, suckers and water sprouts. Do not remove more than a third of the tree. Prune deciduous trees and shrubs that bloom in the summer. Prune spring flowering trees and shrubs after they bloom. Prune raspberry canes and grapevines and fall flowering clematis.

 

Cut back perennials and ornamental grasses. Tying up the grasses before cutting them back to about six inches saves a lot of clean up. Pull back mulch from around perennials on warm days but be prepared to cover them back up if a hard freeze threatens.

 

Late March and April is the time to apply a pre-emergent to the lawn to prevent crabgrass. But be forewarned, pre-emergents prevent seeds from sprouting. If you plan to seed any parts of your lawn, to repair damage from winter or from our summer droughts, don’t apply a pre-emergent to those areas. This also applies to areas where you plan to plant other seeds, whether flowers or vegetables. Stay clear of those areas and apply on a calm day. A light fertilization of the lawn is all you’ll need. Fall fertilization is best.