March
2017
PICKAWAY TO GARDEN
Sprung?
By Paul Hang
Has
spring sprung? That is the question. The answer is, as usual, it depends. It
depends on how you define spring. Is it the first mild day of the year, meteorological
spring March 1st, any day after the spring equinox ( March 20 this
year)? Or, my favorite, once mild days are here to stay. By my definition
spring has not sprung. March is usually
not spring like. Oh yeah it has some nice days. But frequently it is cold or
cool, blustery, rainy, sometimes snowy. Sure there are some mild days, some
warm days and even sunshine. But for the most part it is unpleasant and muddy.
I’ve been hearing people talk about spring being early this year. I believe
this is a result of the all too human tendency to believe something because we
want it to be so. On the other hand, given the record warm days, perhaps spring
has sprung.
What
also seems to have sprung is the usual weather patterns. Is this the new normal
or just an anomaly? We are in uncharted territory and will just have to take it
day by day and forecast by forecast. Either way it has caused gardeners to take
more things into consideration. Soil conditions, temperature and moisture, air
temperature, forecasts, all determine gardening success. There is nothing wrong
with pushing the envelope as long as you don’t risk everything. Start most of your
seeds along with your usual schedule. Don’t put all your plants out early and
be prepared to take action to protect them from frost.
There
are some things that have, or will, sprung. Daffodils, crocuses, dandelions are
blooming. Some flowering shrubs like forsythia and star magnolias are in their
glory. Many trees are in flower although most are inconspicuous. March has its
good points. The full moon in March is called by some the Sap Moon. Not because
newly elected politicians are finally getting down to work but for the obvious
harvest of Maple syrup.
March
is also the beginning of the season when the door to door tree “trimmers” will
offer to “prune” your trees cheap. Topping trees is not good pruning. Information
about pruning trees is at www.ohio-line.osu.edu. For information about caring
for your trees go to www.arborday.org and
www.treecaretips.org. For a list of certified arborists, go to www.isa-arbor.com. Your trees are a
valuable asset to your property, to our community and to our environment.
There is still time
to apply to train to be a Master Gardener Volunteer. Classes will be held
on Thursdays beginning March 23,April
and end early May. Cost is $150 for classes, a manual and background check.
Call me 740-4974397 or email at phang@columbus.rr.com
for an application.
Things to do in the
garden:
If
you feed the birds don’t stop now. March and April are the toughest months for
them. Food is scarce. New fruits, insects and seeds are a long way off and the
old ones have been eaten. March is also time to clean out bird houses and ready
for the nesting season. Begin fertilizing houseplants with a weak solution. Now
is a good time to propagate houseplants. March is not too late to try winter
sowing. What is winter sowing? Google “winter sowing” for more information.
Have your soil tested. Materials and directions are available at the OSU
Extension Office.
The
last average frost date here in zone 6 is April 23rd. A number of
seeds should be started this month. Check your seed packet for the number of
days for germination and count back from the date you want to set out your
plants. The last average frost date means there is a fifty-fifty chance of
frost on that date. That’s the same odds as flipping a coin. A word to the
wise, don’t set out your plants too early unless you are prepared to protect
them should the odds work against you.
Start
your seeds indoors for hardy plants (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels'
sprouts, onions, garlic, leeks, and shallots) if you haven’t already. You can
set them out later in the month weather permitting. Most flower seeds, annuals
or perennials, can also be started. Wait till later in the month to start the half-hearty
plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant unless you are prepared to transplant
to a larger container. Always check the
seed envelope for planting information. Once the soil can be worked (see below)
plant lettuce, spinach, kale, peas, beets, carrots, chard, collards and radish
seeds directly into the soil. Onion sets and potatoes can be planted.
Rake
the lawn to remove the twigs, leaves, and other winter detritus. Dig out those
biennial weeds before they get established. Now is a good time to plant trees
and shrubs and bare root roses. The earlier you transplant perennials the
better they will do. When is the soil ready to be worked? Soil that sticks to
your spade is too wet to work and will be compacted. Make a ball of soil and
drop it. If it crumbles it is ready to work.
Before
those buds break spray fruit trees with dormant oil. Read the directions. Prune
damaged diseased and dead limbs. Also, prune those limbs that grow inward,
suckers and water sprouts. Do not remove more than a third of the tree. Prune
deciduous trees and shrubs that bloom in the summer. Prune spring flowering
trees and shrubs after they bloom. Prune raspberry canes and grapevines and
fall flowering clematis.
Cut
back perennials and ornamental grasses. Tying up the grasses before cutting
them back to about six inches saves a lot of clean up. Pull back mulch from
around perennials on warm days but be prepared to cover them back up if a hard
freeze threatens.
Late
March and April is the time to apply a pre-emergent to the lawn to prevent
crabgrass. The best indicator for this is the first bloom of Callery Pear. But
be forewarned, pre-emergents prevent seeds from sprouting. If you plan to seed
any parts of your lawn, to repair damage from winter or from our summer droughts,
don’t apply a pre-emergent to those areas. This also applies to areas where you
plan to plant other seeds, whether flowers or vegetables. Stay clear of those
areas and apply on a calm day. A light fertilization of the lawn is all you’ll
need. Fall fertilization is best.
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