August 2017
Pickaway to Garden
Confusion?
By Paul J. Hang
Collusion,
illusion, delusion? Conclusion, confusion. As a purveyor and a consumer of
gardening advice I try to avoid confusion. But sometimes it is unavoidable. As
an example, I have heard it said “See bug, spray bug.” Now as a general rule it
means don’t spray until you see a bug (I am using bug in its usual sense not in
its entomological meaning). No bugs, no need to spray. It doesn’t mean that if
you see a bug you should spray it. There
are good bugs and bad bugs when it comes to gardening. We don’t want to spray
good bugs; they are going to eliminate the bad ones. Pesticides do not
discriminate between good bugs and bad bugs. How do we tell if they are good
bugs? It can be confusing.
Here are some
general rules with which I want to bug you. Bad bugs (plant eaters or vectors
of disease) usually occur in groups. Think a flock of sheep. Good bugs are
predators and actively stalk bad bugs. Think a wolf. Good bugs are usually
fast, running around looking for bad bugs that are casually munching on our
plants. This is not always the case. Not all good bugs run around, some hide
and wait for bad bugs to walk or fly by and then they pounce. Some good bugs
set traps or webs, think spiders. Some bugs are more beneficial in their larval
stage than when adults, think lady beetles. Certain wasps insert their eggs
into worms or larvae and those eggs hatch and eat the host from the inside out.
They are called parasitoids. They kill their hosts. (I didn’t say this would be
pretty, confusing yes.)
If you see bad
bugs (aphids, some caterpillars, some mites, scale, etc.) wait to see if good
bugs show up for the feast. If we spray all the bad bugs no good bugs will be
around (if not killed by the spray there will be nothing for them to eat). This
is the premise of organic gardening, take care of the good bugs and they will
take care of the bad ones. Bees are good bugs, spraying when plants are in
flower will kill the bees. Also planting more native plants will attract more
predators. Caterpillars of course will turn into butterflies and moths most of
which are good bugs. It depends on what plants they appear whether we try to eliminate
them or not. Cabbage white butterfly caterpillars on my cabbage and broccoli or
tomato hornworms on my tomatoes I don’t tolerate. Caterpillars of butterflies
on their host plants I do tolerate such as monarch caterpillars on milkweed.
The good bugs
are arthropods. Within that phylum good bugs are in three classes, insects
(beetles, flies, mantids, true bugs, lacewings, ants and wasps) arachnids
(spiders, mites and others) and centipedes. Who knew there are predatory stink
bugs and mites? Maybe it’s more complicated than confusing. For more
information find “Good Garden Bugs” by OSU professor Mary M. Gardiner PH.D. ,Quarry
Books. Also, go to www.bugguide.net hosted by Iowa State University and www.caterpillarlab.org there you will find pictures and
more.
Remember 97
percent of insects are either good or neutral for our gardens and landscape.
August is
Tree Check month. Pay attention to your trees. They are valuable assets to your
property and to our community. Fall is the best time to plant trees. Consider
planting a shade tree. For advice on
what trees to plant and where to plant them, go to www.arborday.org. To gain an
appreciation of our oldest living things see www.treesintrouble.com.
Things to do in the garden:
Weed. Weed.
Weed and maybe water if we don’t get at least an inch of rain each week. Pull
all that crabgrass before it goes to seed. Take heart though, the first good
frost will kill it. Plant the seeds of green beans, broccoli, cauliflower and
cabbage early in the month, carrots, lettuces, spinach, radishes, turnips, and
kale mid-month, for a fall garden.
As plants die
back clean up the debris so bad insects and disease don’t have a place to over-
winter. This is particularly important for corn, beans, cucumbers and bush
squash plants after they cease bearing, some landscape plants you may want to
leave alone for seeds for wintering birds and for visual winter interest such
as coneflowers and native ornamental grasses.
Want to have
a new garden next year? Now is a good time to prepare the site. Cover the area
with black plastic, thick cover of newspaper or cardboard weighted down or even
old carpet. Anything that will block the sun will leave bare earth come spring.
If you are in a hurry you can use an herbicide containing glyphosate.
Disbud your dahlias
for bigger blooms and fertilize. Side dress (fertilize) peonies with a balanced
fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12.
By the end of
the month consider disbudding your tomato plants. Remove the growing tips of
each branch and pinch out all the blossoms that bloom. It takes six weeks from
blossom to fruit. This practice will give bigger tomatoes and prevent all those
marble size tomatoes that the frost gets and never reach the table. If you’re
not sure about this, try it on some of your plants and compare to those that
you leave alone. Experiment! Try this also with melons and winter squash.
Tomatoes not
ripening? Be patient, the plants are still growing and putting down roots not
just ripening the fruit that has already set. Pick tomatoes before they are
completely ripe. They will ripen off the vine if they still show a blush of
green. Totally ripe tomatoes still on the vine can burst with a glut of water
from rain or the hose. They can be sampled by birds and mammals. Follow this
advice and you will enjoy better tomatoes.
This is a
good time to look at plants at their full maturity. Assess their look, their
height, their spread, their color and texture. Do you like where they are? If
not, think about moving them as soon as they begin to go dormant. If they are
annuals, make a note for next year to plant them in another spot in the garden.
If all your perennials have stopped blooming plant some late blooming ones for
next year such as black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, liatris and mallow. It is time
to plant biennials and order bulbs for fall planting for blooms next year. Now
is a good time to divide overgrown perennials and to plant container grown
ones.
If your
coneflowers blossoms appear to be cut at the stem and dangling, cut them off
and put them in the trash, not in the compost heap. This is caused by a beetle
that has laid its egg in the stem ready to hatch next spring. Bad.
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