Top O' the Mourning

April 2019

PICKAWAY TO GARDEN

Top’O the Mourning

By Paul Hang

My Irish is a hangover from last month. Actually, I have altered this old greeting to introduce my pet peeve. The tree toppers are at it again. Just drive down Nicholas Drive or by the hospital to see the evidence. As with all discussions and arguments it is always good to define our terms. Socrates insisted on it. So who am I to neglect it?

What is Topping?

Topping is the excessive and arbitrary removal of all parts of the tree above and beyond a certain height with no regard for the structure or growth of the tree. The vertical stem or main leader and the upper primary limbs on trees are cut back to stubs at a uniform height or lollipop shape. As opposed to topping, pruning is the selective removal of certain limbs based on the structure, crown form and growth of the tree.

I am referring to the pruning of trees, not shrubs or bushes. I am also not referring to formal methods of pruning like topiary, espaliering, pollarding, pleaching, etc.  Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott from the University of Washington says, when reducing the height of a tree properly, “branches are cut back to a lateral branch at least one-third the diameter of the limb being removed and large enough to outgrow lateral branches directly below. The lateral branch becomes the source of new terminal growth and so the tree maintains its natural form.” This is the proper technique for rounded trees but not pyramidal trees, except to remove multiple leaders.

Tree “trimmers” often use different terms to sell you on their “services.” Regardless of what they call it, topping “removes a terminal shoot back to a point where there is no appropriate lateral branch to take over the terminal role.” The result is multiple shoots sprout and compete to see which will take the leader position. To visualize what we mean, point your pointer finger straight up. Bring your finger down (you pruned the branch back to a stub) now extend all five fingers as if you are signaling stop! Those five fingers have replaced the one original, and natural, branch.  

“After topping, many epicormic shoots arise and develop into weakly attached branches (your outstretched fingers). These branches, and multiple leaders”, are weakly attached, “continue to develop girth and weight and have an increasing potential to fall and cause damage to people and property”. Of course this takes time. Tree growth is imperceptible. “What has now been created is a high-maintenance, potentially hazardous tree that must be constantly pruned.” You are now on the list and keeping tree “trimmers” in business.

Reduction of the foliage mass means a reduction in the tree’s capacity to photosynthesize, thus reducing the energy available for all its life processes. Topping leads to tree health issues: sun damage, nutrient stress, insect attack and decay. Topping is always a serious injury to the tree and usually results in serious, long-term structural consequences and liability for the homeowner and the person who topped the tree. Tree topping is never a justifiable pruning practice. And, it also leads to trees that are ugly.

Certified arborists and other legitimate landscape professionals do not practice tree topping. As long as anyone with a pickup or bucket truck and a chainsaw represent themselves as professionals, homeowners and their trees are at risk. For more information go to www.tiptoparborists and to read an article, from which I have quoted, go to www.wp.wsu.edu and search” The Myth of Tree Topping” by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott. More information at http://forestry.ohiodnr.gov/urban. I will continue to mourn our butchered trees. “Top’o the Morning to you” should be a greeting and a warning.

Things to do in the garden:

Time spent on your lawn now will benefit it the rest of the year. Fertilize lightly if at all. The time to re-seed is when night time temps consistently reach 50 degrees and above. This is also the time to aerate lawns. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide when the first bloom appears on Bradford Callery pear in order to prevent crabgrass, unless you plan to seed. When common lilac or Ohio buckeye begins to bloom it is too late for a pre-emergent herbicide to be effective and too early for a post-emergent. Leave clippings on the lawn. Their nitrogen content is high and will reduce the need to fertilize. Mowing height of at least three inches will retard the growth of crab grass and other weeds.

Unless you are prepared to cover plants in case of frost, don’t put out those tender plants such as tomatoes and peppers until mid-May or later when the soil warms up. The average last frost date is now April 23rd. There is a 50/50 chance of frost then and the chance decreases about 10% per week after that. Spring flowering bulbs should be fertilized after they bloom. Remember to leave the leaves of bulbs until they yellow. Brown is better. Also prune spring blooming shrubs after they bloom.

If April brings its overhyped showers don’t work the soil if it is too wet.  Wait until it dries out a bit. If it seems wet enough to make a clay pot, wait. Squeeze a ball of earth about the size of a golf ball and let it drop from waist high, if it breaks apart it’s ready to be worked. Don’t apply mulch until May. Allow the soil to warm.

Cut back your ornamental grasses to six inches. Cut back your butterfly bushes (buddleia) to a foot or two and apply a balanced fertilizer. Now is the time to prune roses. Depending on the variety, you may prune back to a foot in height. Cut off those bagworms from shrubs and trees. Do it now before the worms hatch out (shortly after the Snowmound Spirea blooms). Dispose of the bags in the trash or bury them. One bag left equals a hundred plus new bags that won’t show themselves until this fall.

Tomato and pepper seeds should be started indoors. The seedlings should be moved from the cells after 4 weeks into larger pots. Move them into the garden only after hardening them off and the danger of frost is past. As usual make sure you water in the transplants. When you water, water deeply (top six inches wet) and water the base of the plant not the foliage. Water when the plants need it, not every day. Most plants require 1 to 1 and a half inches of water per week.