Fruits and Nuts

 September 2023

Pickaway to Garden

Fruits and Nuts

By Paul Hang

Recently, I have written about the flowering of plants and their pollination. What is the purpose of all this? It is the process of reproduction, the production of fruits and seeds to carry on the next generation. Why fruits? In scientific terms  ”…a fruit is any plant organ that contains seeds.” Only flowering plants produce fruit. Two major functions of fruit are to protect and nourish the seed as it develops. When the seed matures the fruit changes and ripens. An apple becomes larger, usually blushes red, is juicy and sweet, and is ready to be eaten. Animal dispersion of seeds is an important method for plants to move their offspring “out of the house.” As a bonus the seed gets a dose of manure.

Pollination results in the ovule of a flower being fertilized with the sperm cell of a grain of pollen. Seed development closely follows fruit development. Each ovule will develop into a single seed. The single fertilized cell divides forming more cells. Those cells begin to differentiate into the beginning forms of a plant e.g. root cells and other specialized cells like the seed coat that will protect the seed.

The seed continues to grow in size as the cells grow and proliferate. The seed also stores food reserves for it may be a long time until it germinates and then it must have reserves for the emerging plant to develop its roots, stems and leaves. The fruit cells and the seed cells expand and mature at the same time. The developing seed has an umbilical connection to the protective fruit. The seed cells biological activity slows down and it becomes dry and harder, even changing color to the usual dark brown or black.

Seeds, once mature, can survive in the soil because they are dormant. They germinate when conditions are right. Seeds are living organisms with a limited life span. Weeds also produce seeds that go dormant and can last in the seed bank for years. You can prevent their germination by keeping the soil covered so light does not reach them. Mulch, no hoeing or tilling will help reduce weed seeds from germinating. And, don’t let weeds go to seed.

Beans, nuts, the seed heads on perennials, pine cones, nuts, corn on the cob, peppers and berries, grapes, peaches, apples and yes, even tomatoes, are fruits. We call tomatoes, and other unlikely fruits, vegetables because of the way we use them in our meals. Botanically they are fruits. Tomato pie anyone?

Things to do in the garden:

As annual plants die consider leaving them in the garden. If they are in the vegetable garden, pull them up. If perennials, you may leave them for their winter interest or to preserve them for overwintering pollinator eggs, larvae, pupae or cocoons. Dispose of non-diseased plant debris in a "hot" compost heap to kill the seeds. If diseased, bury them or put them in the trash. In the butterfly garden leave the host plants as they are harboring the overwintering eggs and larvae of next year’s butterflies. Those plants that you don’t want to re-seed remove the seed heads before their seeds are scattered. Or, leave them for the birds. Clean up old fruit from around fruit trees.

If you collect, dry, and store seeds for next year, use only heirloom varieties, hybrids will not grow true. Harvest and cure mature winter squash, pumpkins and gourds if they are ready. Leave a two inch stem. Gourds should be finished with growth before you cut them from the vine, store indoors at 60 degrees.

September is the best time to plant grass seed whether you are re-seeding, patching or establishing a new lawn. If you only fertilize your lawn once a year, fall is the best time to do it. Cooler (slows evaporation), wetter fall weather promotes good root growth and your grass will start out next spring healthier. Fertilize in September and then again around Thanksgiving. Read directions for amounts and settings on application equipment. You might also want to consider shrinking your lawn to save on fertilizer and mowing costs.

In those areas in the vegetable garden that are not to be fall planted, plant a cover crop or “green manure” that will be turned in in the spring. Buckwheat, annual rye, sweet clover, winter barley, wheat, soybeans, alfalfa, and hairy vetch make good green manures.

Now is the time to buy and plant spring flowering bulbs. A good rule of thumb is to plant bulbs at a depth about three times the height of the bulb. Most spring flowering bulbs look best planted in a group not in single file. Plant in a triangle, with the point facing the viewer, for most impact. Planting irises and peonies this fall takes advantage of the warm earth. They should be planted about 2 inches deep. If your peonies haven’t bloomed well because of shade from nearby competing trees, now is a good time to move them to a sunnier place in the yard. Cut deciduous peony leaves to the ground and discard.

Watch for yellowing of gladiolus leaves. Dig the corms and hang until the tops turn brown. Then store in a cool, not freezing, well ventilated basement or garage. Do the same with caladium, cannas, and dahlias when their tops turn brown. Fall is a good time to divide Lily of the Valley, primroses, peonies, day lilies, coral-bells and bleeding heart. Adding bulb food and humus will be rewarded in the spring.

You can plant onion seed now for early green onions and bulbs. Yes, onions are bulbs. You can still plant cool season vegetables. It’s not too late to start beets, carrots, kale and lettuce, maybe even bush beans! If you have row covers, or can make them, you can have these for Thanksgiving dinner. This assumes we don’t have a hard freeze. If we do, prepare to cover the plants. If you can find transplants of broccoli, cabbage and cucumbers you can still get a harvest. Order garlic bulbs now for planting later.

Pot up plants of herbs, chives, parsley, rosemary for a sunny window. Bring in houseplants. Check for insects and treat as necessary. Reduce water and fertilizer for houseplants

Now is a good time to test your soil. The prescribed amendments will have time to work their way into the soil and be available to the plants for the next growing season. Information on soil testing is available at the OSU Extension Office as well as the Helpline at 740- 474-7534 for general questions.