February 2024
PICKAWAY TO GARDEN
Being Humid
By Paul Hang
It is not
humid in my house. In fact, my mucus membranes and my throat feel dry and
irritated. My eyelids are scraping across my eyeballs. My skin is flaking off to such a degree I
resemble a snow thrower. This topic was prompted by these experiences and my
memory of the winter I spent in Thule, Greenland, courtesy of the U.S. Air
Force, where it was so dry you would receive a painful zap of static
electricity on your lips when you drank from a water fountain.
Humidity may
seem like a strange subject for gardeners in February. As I write this the
humidity outside is 52%, the humidity inside is 27%. The temperature outside is
19 degrees, the temperature inside is 71 degrees. If you took a parcel of air
from outside and brought it inside the relative humidity drops. Warm air holds
more water than cold air. We say “it is humid” when the humidity is high. We
don’t have a similar word for when the humidity is low. I suggest “it is
humidry” or how about “inhumid?”
Wikipedia
says, “Humidity is the concentration of water vapor in the air,…” It goes on to
say that it, “…depends on the temperature and pressure ….” Humidity is
expressed as a percentage to communicate the concentration of water vapor. For
example, on a hot sticky day we might say, “The humidity must be 100%.” If the
humidity is 100% the air is saturated and couldn’t hold any more water vapor.
It is called relative humidity because it is comparing the amount of water
vapor in the air to the amount of water vapor in the air if it was saturated.
To define it
further is to plunge into the weeds of technical terms and mathematical
equations, which are really dry (0%). Plants are made up of a lot of water. They
take it up through their roots and to some extent through their leaves. They transpire,
“breathe,” evaporate water vapor out into the air. They do it through pores in
their leaves, called stomata. Stomata can open or close, depending on
temperature and moisture, to control the rate of transpiration.
More to the
point, what effect does humidity have on plants? If the humidity is too high,
plants have a hard time transpiring, evaporating moisture into the air. They
suffocate. High humidity invites pests such as fungus, gnats, mold and bacteria
and it affects plants ability to draw nutrients from the soils. If the humidity
is too low plants may transpire more water than they take in and begin to dry
out. Leaves curl, brown and drop. Flowers drop or don’t form at all.
In our homes
we can control the growing environment to some extent. Low moisture type plants
like succulents, jade, kalanchoes and cacti with thick and waxy leaves can be
grouped together in drier areas of the home, 30%-40%. High moisture types like
ferns, palms, Ficus, Bamboo and Schefflera can be clustered or placed in higher
moisture areas like bathrooms, kitchens or near water features, 50%-70%. Other
ways to increase humidity besides location include misting and pebble trays,
although the effect is short lived. Perhaps the best technique is to use a
humidifier. Don’t overwater, make sure pots have drainage.
Humidity is a
major factor in plant growth along with temperature, watering, light and
nutrient availability. Know your plants requirements and you can have some
control over their health while indoors and waiting for more warm humid days.
Interested in becoming a Master
Gardener Volunteer?
Attend our Open House to learn more about it. February 7th, 4:30 to
6:00 PM at the OSU Extension Office Conference Room 2nd floor, 110 Island
Road (East Entrance)
Questions??’s
740-497-4384 or Email, lhuston@columbus.rr.com
Things to do in the garden:
Check
perennials and bulbs for heaving out of the ground. Press them down gently with
your foot. Make a list of plants you want. Inventory seeds you have saved to make
sure they aren’t past viability. Send in your seed orders. Will our results
ever match those of the glossy color pictures? When you make out your seed and
plant orders consider planting more native and heirloom plants. Native plants
are plants that evolved here and are adapted to our conditions, diseases and
native pests. While you’re at it try googling the name of a flower you’re
thinking about ordering. You will be
able to see pictures and planting information.
This is the time
to prune trees and shrubs (after you sharpen your tools). You can see their
structure now that they are dormant and the leaves are down. Cut out crossing
and rubbing branches and unwanted suckers.
Pruning can be done to reduce the size of a tree or shrub to bring it in
to balance or to remove overhanging branches blocking a view or path. Insects
are less likely to be attracted to cuts while trees are dormant. Remember,
spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after flowering if you want to enjoy
the blooms. Summer flowering shrubs can be pruned now. Cut back butterfly bush
(Buddleia) severely.
On smaller
trees you may want to take care of problems yourself. On larger trees you should
call in an expert to inspect and perhaps correct any problems. Arborists are in
a slow time of year. The ground, if frozen, will not be damaged and compacted
as much from equipment and crews. The Arbor Day Foundation recommends that you
have Certified Arborists check any safety problems you may have noticed. To
find them go to www.isa-arbor.com click on “Verify Certification” and
then “Find an Arborist.” They will not recommend topping your trees. The City
of Circleville has a Comprehensive Tree Plan. You can find it at
ci.circleville.oh.us, in the search box type Tree Plan. There you will find
lots of information on caring for trees.
If you dug up
bulbs for storage check on them. Spritz them with water to prevent drying out. Throw
away any rotting or shriveled ones. Water any dormant or overwintering plants
in your garage or basement. Water houseplants with lukewarm water, don’t
overwater and turn them a quarter turn once a week, no fertilizer yet.
Seeds of
onions, cabbage, cauliflower, and other members of the Cole family can be
started indoors this month for setting out in late March or early April,
depending on the weather: The University of Minnesota has a good discussion; go
to www.extension.umn.edu/garden /flowers/starting-seeds-indoors. Also
Google Winter Sowing. There you will read how to recycle plastic milk bottles
to easily germinate some seeds. It is a good way to raise a lot of seedlings
for planting “drifts,” those bands of like plants that wander serpentinely
through flower beds. Now is a good time to start building raised vegetable
garden beds. If your compost heap isn’t frozen and is workable, turn it.
No comments:
Post a Comment