June 2024
Pickaway to Garden
Too big
By Paul Hang
Last June my
column title was, “Baby It’s Too Late.” This June my warning is, “Too Big.” I
have been known to plant things that became a lot bigger than I had planned. My
Dawn Redwood and my Northern Catalpa trees are rivaling “Jack and the Bean
Stalk” fairy tale status. My Stiff Goldenrod and my Blazing Star (both native
plants) have performed well beyond expectations. Native plants in our flower
beds without the competition of a natural environment can grow crazy. My
ninebark is the size of a one car garage and my elderberries are well …. Last
June, in order to encourage you to plant because it wasn’t too late, I
suggested you read the seed packet for information on when to plant certain
crops. Also on seed packets and plant tags they often say how big a plant might
get. Read’em and heed’em.
The really
good fine print goes on to say, “This may vary depending on soil and weather
conditions” Now; I have been accused of telling some people, “Do as I say, not
as I do.” I have also not read directions and I have not believed some
directions. This also goes for Google and You Tube. What I am trying to get at
is, be careful before you invest in and plant things you may not be familiar
with and take directions seriously and use more than one source of information.
Here in South
Central Ohio we have an adequate amount of rainfall even if we do get droughty
summers. We also have clay soils. People often curse their clay soils for many
reasons but one thing about clay is, it is often very fertile. Once amended
with organic matter it is a very nice growing medium. Put the wrong plant in
the wrong place and you too may have a yard resembling Jurassic Park. Fe -Fi-
Fo- Fum, don’t say I haven’t warned you.
The
accompanying photograph shows me (I am just under 6’ tall) and my elderberries.
They sprouted from three sticks I planted just a few short years ago. What to
do? Prune, prune, prune. As a last result, cut them down and start over with
something labeled dwarf (which brings to mind other fairy tales). Read labels
and seed packets, beware of plant “gifts.” Use tape measures when planning a
planting. Believe it when you read “H 20’ W 12” mature height may reach 60’ “.
If you are
enamored of a plant, research for cultivars that are smaller. For instance,
Limelight Hydrangea is a great plant. If you read the directions it might say
“grows quite tall” or “a larger variety reaching 6-8 feet tall.” Mine surpassed
that. Upon further investigation, there are cultivars; ‘Limelight Prime’ grows
4-6’ or ‘Little Lime’ grows to 4’. Are they too big?
Our annual
Master Gardener Volunteer Founders Day Celebration will be held on Wednesday
June 26th, 6:00 PM at the Starkey Pavilion at Mary Virginia Crites
Hannan Park. Jennifer Windus from the Ohio Invasive Plant Council will present
“Good Plants Gone Bad.” Please bring seating as there is none at the Pavilion.
Admission is free!
Things to do in the garden:
To avoid the
wilting of cucumber and melon vines cover the new plants with row cover
material until the plants flower. Then remove the cover so that the pollinators
can do their work. Use row covers on all vegetable plants that do not need to
be pollinated: cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, lettuce, onions and root
crops are examples. We eat them before they flower and go to seed, thus no need
for them to be pollinated. I have begun to do this on more vegetables and it
keeps most pests away. Mulch vegetables in mid-month after the soil has warmed
up. You can fertilize all vegetables, corn two times, this month.
Weed and thin
plants. Crowding plants more than is recommended results in all the plants
doing poorly. Water deeply (not a little each day) one inch per week all
summer. Apply the water to the base of
the plants rather than on the foliage. If you use a sprinkler, water early in
the day so the foliage can dry before nightfall. Wet foliage overnight
encourages fungal diseases to develop.
Remove seed
heads from perennials. Don’t allow fancy hybrids to ripen and self-sow as their
offspring will not come true. Deadhead flowers for more blooms. Iris can be
divided and replanted after blooming. Pinch back mums once they are 4 to 6
inches tall. Continue to pinch back until mid-July. If your daffodils or other
bulb plants didn’t bloom well it could be because they are now growing in the shade
of larger grown trees or shrubs. Or, perhaps they are too crowded? Once the
foliage turns yellow you can dig up the bulbs and divide and/or move them.
Fruit trees
often shed small fruits in early summer called June Drop. Thin after this
occurs. Thin apples to one fruit per cluster and one fruit every four to eight
inches. Other tree fruit can be thinned a little less. This will cause bigger
fruit. Don’t thin cherries. Pick up all fallen fruit. Only compost fallen fruit
if you have a “hot” heap. Otherwise dispose of diseased fruit in the trash.
If you notice
a “volunteer” tomato plant in your garden, yank it out or transplant it. Good
gardeners, like good farmers, rotate their crops. A volunteer growing in last
year’s tomato area allows disease to accumulate in that spot. Mulch under
tomatoes keeps the soil from splashing up on the fruits. Soil on the fruits
promotes disease. If you don’t stake, trellis or cage your tomatoes and let
them sprawl on the ground, mulch will keep the fruit off the bare ground. Mulch
also keeps the ground from drying out, suppresses weeds and moderates the soil
temperature. Several layers of newspaper topped with organic mulch, leaves, untreated
grass clippings, coarse compost, shredded bark etc. should do the trick. Never
let your tomatoes wilt. Uneven watering causes blossom end rot.
Water your
roses well but hold off on the geraniums. They will bloom best when kept
somewhat dry. Roses sprouting from below the graft should be replaced. Peonies
should be fertilized after they finish blooming. Newly planted trees and bushes
should be watered well each week for the first two years if the weather turns
dry. Give them a good soaking. Don’t give them a booster feeding of fertilizer
this year. Force those young roots to search for food by stretching out into
the soil. Mow the lawn high, 3-4 inches, it crowds out weeds and needs less
water, and mowing.
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